Long Island Vines
By HOWARD G. GOLDBERG
Published: June 21, 2013
The 62-acre Kontokosta Winery
in Greenport, the easternmost winery on the North Fork, opened this
month with a sizable portfolio of eight wines, featuring impressive
reds.
The proprietors, Michael E. Kontokosta, the vineyard manager, and his brother, Constantine E. Kontokosta, own the Harborfront Inn in Greenport and the Cove Place Inn in Aquebogue.
Their 2007 Blum merlot ($19), from Ackerly Pond Vineyards
grapes of Peconic, is gorgeous; the 2007 cabernet franc ($29) is
explosively flavorful; the regular 2007 merlot ($29), from Kontokosta
fruit, is rich; the 2010 cabernet sauvignon ($22) is savory.
I found the tangy 2012 sauvignon blanc ($25) and the sumptuous 2009
chardonnay ($17), which was made from grapes bought from Sargon Vineyard
in Orient, enticing. The 2010 viognier ($25) is piquant; the 2012 rosé
($15), mainly syrah, offers a floral aroma.
Eric Fry made the 2007, 2009 and 2010 vintages at the Lenz Winery
in Peconic. Gilles Martin, the consulting winemaker, produced the 2012
vintage at the Kontokosta Winery, in a 9,000-square-foot wind-powered
gray barnlike building atop a high bluff. The cellar can make 5,000
cases yearly. The tall windows face Long Island Sound and nearly 24
acres growing seven grape varieties.
“Other than managing the vineyard, I have no formal training in
viticulture or enology,” Michael E. Kontokosta said in an e-mail. “I
prefer to learn by engaging, not studying.” He had left corporate
finance law in 2001 to go into business.
The first vines were planted in 2002, the last in 2004, by Ray Blum, who
oversaw the vineyard until his death in 2007. He had founded Peconic
Bay Vineyards in Cutchogue and owned Ackerly Pond Vineyards.
Kontokosta began selling other producers its grapes in 2006. With Long
Island’s outstanding 2007 vintage, it started retaining some for itself.
Its bottles are sold only in the tasting room.
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